Japanese kimono: traditions, history, types

Traditions are an important part of life in the Japanese archipelago, where ceremonies and rules, etiquette norms and everyday life have been preserved for centuries. Clothes will be no exception. The Japanese kimono is a traditional outfit that is present in the wardrobe of almost every resident of the country. Some use kimonos every day, others only have holiday ones for festivals and major holidays.

Traditional Japanese clothing

Kimono in Japanese is a word meaning clothing. Previously, it was applied to all clothing in general, without separation by type. Gradually, the term narrowed and is now used in relation to outfits reminiscent of dressing gowns. Kimono (men's, children's, women's) is shaped like the letter T, long enough to cover the ankles. You can guess the status of the owner by the dress - for example, wide long sleeves indicate that the girl is looking for a groom. Traditional attire is required for ceremonies, including farewell to the deceased. The “robe” is worn wrapped on the right side; it is put on the deceased so that the right side is on top.

It's hard to imagine what an everyday kimono is without considering the accessories that accompany it. The main one is obi. This is the name of a wide soft belt tied with a knot at the back. Geta and zori are worn to accompany the traditional outfit. Under the top one, a lower dress (sometimes several) is usually worn.

History of Japanese kimono

Japanese dress evolved from Chinese Hanfu in the 5th century, along with the strengthening of cultural ties with the mainland. Clothing acquired its modern appearance during the Heyan period (794-1192). It has a standard size and can be adjusted by the owner herself. For production, a single piece of fabric is used - for this purpose, kimono textiles are produced in the most convenient width and length for cutting and sewing. Previously, items were often embroidered by hand, which greatly influenced the price.

Kimono is a symbol of aesthetics and practicality

A traditional kimono is ripped open before washing, then sewn back together. Now this technique has been preserved in some areas. To avoid defects, the outfit is sewn with large stitches.

Another tradition coming from history is the reuse of material. Old clothes were used to make outfits for children, short haori robes, hairpins with kanzashi flowers, and bags. Often the fabric was used to repair other clothes of similar colors. Sometimes a damaged item was unraveled into threads, so that the fabric could be woven again.

What about men?

Yes, there are kimonos for men! Okay, in the West you won't see men wearing them outside of the sauna or gym, but in Japan, kimonos are popular even among men.

Yakuza

The kimono has been a staple garment for over 1000 years. There are many differences between men's and women's kimonos. The most important of these is that kimonos for men are much simpler. The colors are often dark, muted and have a subtle pattern. The darker the color, the more formal the kimono. Of course, there are differences in terms of quality, material and price.

A unique kimono for each country at the Tokyo Olympics. 65 photos

Share link:

Tweet
whatsapp
Share posts on Tumblr
Telegram
More

by email
Pocket
Seal

Kinds

It is customary to divide traditional outfits into women's and men's. Nowadays, classic historical sets are rarely used, especially those intended for women, since they included more than 12 parts. It is impossible to put on such a complex outfit yourself, and even choosing all the parts so that they are in harmony is extremely difficult. Complete sets are occasionally worn by geishas, brides, and hostesses. On unofficial occasions, simplified sets are worn - clothes of 1-2 layers. Sometimes the second layer of the outfit is imitated with a false collar.

Men's

Men's kimono - a set of 5 elements, accompanied by tabi and geta. In this outfit, the sleeves are shallow and completely sewn to the main part of the product (sometimes stitching gaps of up to 7 cm are allowed). To sew the product, matte material of muted color is used. Favorite colors are blue, black, brown, green.

For informal occasions, a man can choose patterned fabric. The most formal variety is a black set with 5 family coats of arms (on the back, sleeves, chest). Less official - a set with 3 coats of arms.

Men wear dark sets

Women's

The design of the women's set is noticeably more complex than the men's. When planning to choose and wear such a costume, it is worth inviting an experienced costume designer who can select matching elements, put them on correctly and teach how to handle the item. A kimono is an expensive product, so people who teach the art of wearing it undergo special training and receive a license. They select an outfit, taking into account the age, social status of the future hostess, the nuances of the event, and the season. Each outfit is not just clothing, but also a wordless message to others.

Types of women's clothing:

Kurotomesode is a set for an official event, for a married person. Mothers often choose the outfit for their daughters’ weddings. The set is decorated with family coats of arms on the sleeves, chest, and back.
Furisode - a set with sleeves that reach the ankles. Intended for unmarried people, often used at coming of age ceremonies. It can be worn by a girl invited to a loved one’s wedding.
Irotomesode is a type intended for a married woman. Irotomesode is suitable as an outfit for a relative of the person getting married. Classic design - plain fabric, pattern below the waist, 3-5 family coats of arms.
Uchikake is a formal outfit designed for brides and stage workers. The set is decorated with brocade, is not used with an obi, and stretches to the floor. For a wedding they wear a white or red outfit, when working on stage - any color.
Susohiki - kimono of dancers, geishas. This is a long dress - the skirt stretches along the floor and reaches a length of 2 meters. Since it is impossible to go outside in such an outfit and you have to take off your skirt indoors, the girl wearing the set must combine susohiki with beautiful underwear.
Mofuku - clothes for funerals. The set is made of black fabric and is intended for the loved ones of the deceased.
Homongi is sewn from patterned fabric and is intended for formal events. Hemongs can be worn by all women (regardless of social status).
Tsukesage is a modest, discreet analogue of hemongi with a pattern below the waist. Available to all women.
Iromuji is a monochromatic outfit for an unmarried person. Its understated style has made it a favorite when choosing tea ceremony attire. Sometimes jacquard-like patterns are woven over dyed silk.
Komon is a kimono with a small repeating pattern, intended for everyday use. Available to everyone, regardless of social status.
Yukata is an informal summer outfit made of linen, cotton, and hemp. A favorite when choosing clothes for a summer festival, visiting a hot spring.

Etiquette regulates the choice of clothing

Juni-hitoe

Both women's and men's kimonos are worn with a wrap to the right.
At the funeral, the body is dressed in a kimono with a wrap to the left, they say, “The world after death is the opposite of our world.” Jūnihitoe is not just a kimono. No, these are the most complex, beautiful and therefore the most expensive kimonos! This is why they are only worn by women of the Japanese imperial family or people who work for them. The Jūnihitoe kimono is made up of several layers of fabric, each with its own unique colors and patterns. By the way, such kimonos are not cheap: they often cost tens of thousands of euros. They are also very heavy, weighing up to 20 kg. Currently, Jūnihitoe is only worn in the Japanese Imperial Palace. They can also be admired in various museums and exhibitions.

What does it consist of?

Elements of women's kimono:

inside at the top of the door;
inside front okumi;
bottom inside susomawashi;
ushiromigoro back;
eri collar;
outer part of the tomoeri collar;
the inside of the uraeri collar;
hemmed fuki hem;
the upper part of the furi sleeve;
front half of maimigoro;
sode sleeve;
unstitched miyatsukuchi sleeve opening;
sodeguchi sleeve opening;
lower half of sodetsuke sleeve;
tamoto sleeve pocket.

Five elements of a kimono, characteristic of both men's and women's sets:

maemigoro – body part in front;
atomigoro – rear body part;
okumi – edges;
uwamae – the part on the left in front;
shitamae - the part on the right in front.

Kimono includes many details

Price

The cost of a traditional Japanese costume can easily exceed 10 thousand dollars. Well, the price of a complete set (ties, tabi, sandals, obi and underwear) sometimes reaches up to 20 thousand dollars. Even one belt, made in a single copy, can cost as much as a whole kimono.

However, many Japanese costumes owned by historical reenactors or collectors are cheaper. Activists make their own clothes: altering old ones or using standard ones as an example. Well, dyed silk is replaced with machine-woven fabrics. In the domestic market, such a worn kimono costs about 500 yen, and a women's obi made from a template costs 1,500 yen. Men's belts are short and narrow, so their price is much lower.

Cutting and sewing a kimono

To make a kimono, you need to take the following measurements:

length;
the distance between the beginning of the shoulder and the point of the sword (19-23 cm);
shoulder width;
length from the center of the shoulder to the back of the collar;
sleeve opening (20-23 cm);
sleeve height (49-51 cm for men's model);
armhole (23 cm for women's model, 40 cm for men's);
sleeve width (35 cm);
interception width (for men's set 40 cm, for women's set 30 cm);
height without collar (calculated by height);
shoulder and sleeve length.

For sewing, we use rolled fabric 36-72 cm wide and 4-26 m long. For 1 women's kimono, a cut of 0.36 * 12 m is required.

Making a kimono is a real art

Character traits

Japanese kimonos are worn by both sexes and even children. The cut of this clothing is special. The model is created by applying geometric lines in the form of the letter T. It is not customary to fit it to a specific figure. We are talking not only about the width of the product, but also about its length. Accordingly, you can only order something with a strictly defined cut.

Info! Essentially, a kimano is a Japanese robe made of silk fabric. This is a long wrap dress with fairly wide sleeves, equipped with a wide belt and a bow in the back. The men's product is significantly narrower than the women's product, and is tied as close to the hips as possible.

The Japanese kimono creates an accent only in the area of the waist and shoulders. The figure in it is hidden, and existing imperfections are hidden. When putting on such clothing, it is adjusted to the wearer by creating characteristic folds. This design is fixed with the help of an obi belt .

When cutting clothes, a single piece of fabric is used. Its width is 40 cm , and its length varies between 9 – 12 m . Four stripes are created from this matter. Two of them are used to cover the body, and the other two are used to create sleeves. An overhead and main collar is additionally created from small strips. Also, a couple of narrow parts are used to decorate the front edges. All these elements have a rectangular shape. There are no curves on them.

The Japanese robe wraps to the right side. Due to this, the left part is always located on top, and the right one is inside, as close as possible to the body. The sleeves are visually similar to the bag. In men's models they are sewn in. In female versions, a hole called furitsyakuchi .

Sleeve length may vary. For example, in girls who have not yet married, as well as in future geishas, they reach a meter. Children's models look a little simpler. Due to this, there are no difficulties with putting on the product. This outfit resembles a quilted version of a robe and is made in brighter colors than adult models.

Traditional materials for creating clothes are satin and silk. Painting on fabric is usually done by hand. The patterns, their location, as well as the color of the item of clothing directly depend on the gender and age of the person, as well as his social status and the occasion for which the outfit is worn. The connection between the print and the season is also noted. For example, in spring, clothes are decorated with sakura flowers, and in winter, bamboo and pine trees are depicted on them.

Children's

Women's

Male

Content and style

There are formal and informal outfits. Bright colors and long sleeves of women's clothing are a sign that the owner is not married. Men's models are basic, dark, strict. The formality of the set shows the number of family coats of arms.

In the past, the kimono was considered an artist's canvas because the straight, crisp lines created a sense of purity. When dyeing, the master took into account how the product would fit on a person and created a pattern that would move with the body parts. Many decorative motifs originate from China, but are refined according to the Japanese concept of beauty. The patterns of the outfit reflect the personality, emotions of the owner, the season of the year and the peculiarities of the occasion, and the attitude towards others. Sometimes an outfit invokes the blessing of the gods and attracts good luck.

Cranes

The crane is a bird that appears in many myths. She lives in the land of immortality, brings good luck, a long happy life.

Cherry

Cherry blossoms are a symbol of the fragility of beauty, the brevity of life. It is also associated with a good mood and an excellent harvest. Although the theme is more spring, the set decorated with cherry blossoms can be worn all year round.

Outfit decorated with cherry blossoms

Duck

The Mandarin duck is a symbol of eternal love and absolute fidelity. The pattern is used in the design of wedding dresses.

Chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemum in Japan is the imperial flower. Clothing embroidered with such a pattern symbolizes a good mood, indifference to external shine, and ease. The flower is associated with long life and a successful harvest.

White chrysanthemum is a flower of death, a symbol of funeral.

Chrysanthemums

Purple

Purple in Japanese tradition is the color of endless love. The associations are due to the plant from which purple dye was obtained in the past - it takes root quickly and well, and is associated with permanence.

Red color

Any color of a kimono is associated with the plant world. Red is the color of safflower. More often, red sets are chosen by young people.

Motifs of folk tales

Often, when decorating, they used motifs with storks - symbols of long life and beauty. Birds appear in folk tales - they are believed to live in the land of the immortals. Often the stork takes on the image of an obedient wife who works tirelessly. In the drawings, storks are combined with pine trees, bamboo, and plum flowers.

Another motif associated with the legends is the Phoenix bird, symbolizing femininity, and the dragon associated with masculinity. Such patterns are relevant for wedding sets. Bright tail feathers are a sign of justice, sincere feelings, and dignity. Sometimes the bride's outfit was embroidered with sparrows - this plot refers to the fairy tale about a wife who was jealous of her husband for his favorite sparrow.

Set with storks

Komon

Unlike traditional European clothing, which emphasizes the structure of the human body, a kimono highlights only the shoulders and waist of the wearer, hiding the flaws of his figure.
Komon style kimonos are the most common as they are designed for everyday use. The Japanese word Komon means "pattern". Thus, kimono-komons have a beautiful permanent pattern. The modest komon kimono is the workhorse of the kimono wardrobe, which can be worn on trips to the city, on a visit, or in any informal situation outside the home. It has a long history that dates back to Meiji times.

It's like a fancy dress - not good for a formal ceremony, but good for a party, meeting with friends, or maybe watching a traditional art performance.

Of course, there are many other styles besides these four, but these are the most important and common for women.

Japanese kimono now

Social surveys have shown that 80% of the Japanese have worn a kimono at least once, and 40% of the archipelago’s population has at least one set of their own. Kimono, although not used in everyday life as it was in past centuries, remains a significant part of culture. The modern pace of life makes it difficult to enjoy traditional outfits, but every few years, most Japanese people have a reason to wear a beautiful, elaborate dress.

Modern high-quality kimonos are expensive. The price is determined by the method of printing the pattern, its complexity, the presence of embroidery, and the fabric used.

Collectors value antique kimonos; such pieces of art cost tens or hundreds of thousands of dollars.

Features of kimono today

Practical, simple models are now being produced.

Cheap products are manufactured for a wide market. The main manufacturer is China. The peculiarity of Chinese clothing is that the color is too bright and the material is synthetic.

Kimonos for martial arts are produced in abundance. They are necessary in training judo, kendo, iaido, karate. The correct name for sportswear is dogi; the term “kimono” in relation to it is common only in Russian.

Karate kit

Additional costume elements

In addition to the robe, the costume includes many other details. The most popular of them are worth considering in more detail:

sasoeke and hadajuban. Wide trousers and a thin shirt, which are used in the form of a kind of underwear;
Juban. A long shirt with a cut reminiscent of a Japanese kimono. It is customary to wear it under the main item of clothing to avoid sweat getting on the outfit;
hakama. Wide pleated pants or skirt;

haori. A special model of jacket that is worn over a robe. Due to this, the image becomes more formal. The structure is secured with a cord called haori-himo;

kanzashi. A special type of handmade jewelry. Often the motifs of pins echo the prints on the main item of clothing;

tabi. Special socks with the big toe separated. This ensures maximum comfort when wearing shoes;

zori. Sandals made of fabric or leather. Visually similar to slates;

geta. Shoes made of wood. As a rule, such sandals are worn in an ensemble with a yukata;

Varazdi. Sandals made from straw. Priests wear such shoes in temples;

obi. A wide belt that complements the main outfit;

okobo. High-soled shoes. It is possible to walk in it only in small steps. Otherwise, the girl may fall.

Japanese kimono is more than just clothing. This is part of Japanese culture, personifying the traditions of this people. Such costumes come in a wide variety and are selected taking into account the occasion for which they are used. Despite the fact that they appeared many centuries ago, such wardrobe items remain in demand to this day.

Influence on world fashion

The opening of Japanese borders in the 18th century was the first step towards popularizing the culture of the islanders. Along with merchant ships, household items, including clothing, spread around the world. Since then, kimono has influenced the tastes of not only ordinary people, but also key characters in the fashion world. One of the most famous fans of the style of the distant archipelago was Alexander McQueen - this is noticeable in his collections.

The kimono served as the basis for the design of many of the outfits for Star Wars characters. The clothing style, as George Lucas admitted, was influenced by Akira Kurosawa's film The Hidden Fortress.

What the Japanese called the word “kimono”

Since ancient times, the word “kimono” in Japan meant any clothing at all. In the 19th century, the country, which had previously been a closed state, opened up to the world and began to actively borrow elements from American and European life. By the end of the century, many Japanese were wearing Western clothing, so there was a need to clarify the terms and separate traditional Japanese and modern Western clothing in speech. The first one began to be called “wafuku”.

However, for Europeans who do not delve into the intricacies of the Japanese language, the kimono remained precisely traditional clothing, as well as the “uniform” of geishas. So in modern Japanese, the word “kimono” has two meanings: general - any clothing, narrow - traditional clothing.

Clothing of feudal lords in Japan

The first picture shows Sokutai's clothing - a ceremonial dress that a nobleman wore to a reception with the ruler. Women's formal dress is shown in Figures 2 and 6. Men's home suit is shown in Figure 3, and women's home attire can be seen in Figures 4 and 5.