Author: Varvara Lyutova
03 January 2021 11:20
Community: Facts
Tags: stories kimono fashion clothes where it came from changes in history styles evolution
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For centuries, style and fashion in Japan have been defined by one item: the kimono. It was not just a piece of clothing - it was a symbol of an entire culture, carrying symbolic meaning and embodying much more than what can be seen. Today we will try to trace the evolution of the kimono, starting from the 8th century AD, and evaluate its role in modern Japanese culture.
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Style
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Traditional kimonos differ from each other in style. Style is determined by a number of criteria - gender, marital status, event to be attended. For example, an unmarried girl will wear a furisode (“flying sleeves”) type kimolo to a formal event, and a man, a store owner, will wear a happi (a kimono, more like a jacket) to a public celebration.
Kimono. National costume of Japan
The history of the Japanese kimono goes back a good one and a half thousand years. During this time, it changed more than once, although the essence remained the same. Thanks to this, we can say that the traditional Japanese kimono is a layer of culture, an integral and important part of the image of Japan.
But first you need to understand what is meant by the word “kimono”.
Initially, this was what clothing in general was called. And after a long time, closer to the 19th century, when Western culture began to win the hearts of the Japanese, the concept shifted towards traditional clothing (the word “wafuku” - “Japanese clothing” is also often used, although it became synonymous with “kimono” relatively recently). The change in meaning was necessary so as not to confuse “foreign” and “native”.
And that’s why today a kimono is a colorful type of national clothing, a specific loose robe, often in the colors of birds of paradise. When putting on a kimono, you need to remember that it matches your gender, age, status, situation (settings, event), and time of year. It is very important.
Of course, a kimono is not a “working suit” for geishas, especially since geishas appeared only in the 18th century Although it turned out that cinema and popular culture intensively popularize geishas and forget about everyone else who wore other equally beautiful clothes.
However, there was a period in Japanese history when only geishas and prostitutes were bright and beautiful on the streets. Apparently, this is where the identification of bright, beautiful kimonos and geishas began.
Why are such rich colors, embroidery, and symbolic patterns chosen? The Japanese are quite superstitious, they have a strong belief in ghosts, demons, spirits, symbols and amulets... And this belief could not but be reflected in the national costume. Therefore, nothing in a kimono is accidental: neither color, nor cut, nor decoration.
Types of kimono
The concept of “kimono” is too broad to not be subdivided into anything. Therefore, the types of this clothing are divided not only into men's and women's (differing in length and color), but also according to events and status.
In addition, in Japan, the kimono is wrapped on the right side; for Europeans this is “manly.” Among the female ones, the following types are distinguished:
• Yukata is a casual cotton robe for the warm season and for wearing at home. The coloring is quite simple, but not impersonal. Light floral motifs, an abundance of pastel colors, and “romantic” colors are allowed. Everyone wears it, regardless of age and position.
• Iromuji - an everyday plain kimono without any special decorations for ceremonies, arts or “non-dirty” crafts.
• Komon is a casual, ornate kimono for any woman. Painted with “related” patterns. Great for sightseeing.
Tsukesagi is a “light” version of a kimono for going out. Plain color, no decorations. Suitable for all women.
• Homongi - kimono for going out, for social events, parties with dignitaries. Richly decorated, suitable for all women.
• Furisode - a kimono with an abundance of patterns, rich colors and decorations. Has different sleeve lengths (short, medium and long). Mostly, unmarried girls wear it for important events: graduation, coming of age ceremony, at a wedding as a bridesmaid, etc.
• Irotomesode - a kimono mainly for visiting Shinto shrines and ceremonies in them. Richly decorated below the waist, plain at the top, and has short sleeves. Worn by all women, no matter what their status or position.
• Kurotomesode - a black kimono, heavily decorated with expensive and labor-intensive designs below the waist, with short sleeves. Mostly these clothes are worn by married women to important events.
Men's kimonos are divided into:
• Samu - an everyday kimono for physical work, made of black (gray) material.
• Jinbei is an analogue of yukata, a kimono for wearing at home or in the warm season. Consists of a cotton jacket and simple shorts.
• Tanzen - a kimono with the functions of a coat. Sewn from thick cotton fabric, tied at the chest. Tanzen is usually bright and colorful.
• Hupp is a universal cotton jacket with narrow sleeves. Understanding these points will save you from awkward situations when you don't match the place and time in your outfit. This is very important for the Japanese.
obi belt
If the kimono has so many types, then the obi belt cannot be just a strip of fabric.
Maru obi is a festive belt for wedding events (worn by the bride). Made from a strip of fabric approximately 65 cm (folded in half and stitched), both sides are richly decorated with embroidery. Length – 3.6-4.5 meters.
Darari obi is a maiko belt with the seal of an okiya (the house where geisha and maiko live). Richly decorated and embroidered. Length – up to 6 meters.
Fukuro obi is the most common and used type of formal belt. It can consist of either fabric folded in half or two sewn parts (where the lower one can be made of thin, cheaper material). Used in clothing for ceremonies, it has largely replaced the mara obi. As a result, the fukuro obi measures 30 cm by 3.6-4.5 meters.
It is divided into three types according to cost and pattern covering:
1. Brocade belt with a rich pattern over the entire surface;
2. Brocade belt, covered with a pattern on 2/3;
3. Brocade belt with a pattern only in places that will be visible.
Kobukuro obi is a non-rigid belt with no lining, 15-20 cm by 3 meters.
Kyo-bukuro obi - like fukuro obi, but used to decorate an everyday kimono. 30 by 350 cm.
The Fukuro Nagoya obi, or Hassun Nagoya, is a folding belt, but stitched where the knot is tied. Length – 3.5 meters.
The Nagoya obi is the most common belt today. It differs from the others in that one end is stitched and the other is straightened (this is necessary to simplify tying). Usually has a pattern only on the demonstrated part of the assembly. 30 cm by 3.15-3.45 meters.
The naked obi becomes festive or everyday thanks to the material from which it is made. However, it is not suitable for very formal and important events, since historically it was for daily wear.
Hanhaba obi is an unlined belt that should not be worn on holidays and ceremonies. Most often worn with a yukata and allows you to play with tying knots. 15 cm wide, 3-4 meters long.
Chuya obi (Hara-awase) is an informal belt, distinguished by the fact that it has 2 different designs, a kind of “2 in 1”. Usually one side is colored, variegated, in light shades, and the other is dark tones, with a modest pattern. Often worn by geishas and popular with collectors. 30 cm by 3.5-4 meters.
Heko obi is also an informal belt that was previously worn by men and children. And now women too, but only with equally informal kimonos or yukatas. Heko obi for an adult: 20-30 cm wide and 3 meters long.
The hitoe obi is a very rigid, single-layer belt that does not require lining. Worn with an everyday kimono or yukata. 15-20 cm wide, 4 meters long.
Odori obi is a purely stage belt, or any belt used in a dance performance. As a rule, it is quite long and wide, with a simple large pattern. 10-30 cm by 3.5-4.5 meters.
Tenga obi is a belt suitable for holidays and made from more expensive fabric. Symbols of prosperity or the motive of the event are chosen as a pattern. 20 cm wide, 3.5-4 meters long.
Tsuke obi is a set of the belt itself and an already tied knot. Very popular in modern Japan. The belt is secured with ribbons. The Tsuke obi should not be worn to formal events, but for an informal setting it is perfect. Usually worn with a yukata.
There are several more purely domestic types of obi, which we did not consider due to their “prosaic” nature.
Features of a modern kimono
The cut of the kimono implies versatility of size and practicality. Therefore, the basis of the pattern is a rectangle; scraps of fabric are easy to use again. Although there may not be so many of the latter, because the length of the sleeve can be quite long - it depends on several parameters (age, event, etc.).
This is a standard modern outfit. As you can see, there are no complex shapes, bends, grooves or anything else. Everything is extremely simple. But this is the point: to create beauty not by the temptation of body shapes, but by the beauty of the costume. Moreover, the Japanese are sure that a woman is beautiful if nothing sticks out and her clothes do not fit her natural curves. And kimonos from a multi-layered outfit of different solid colors turned into 2-4 layers, where only the top one is decorated, which greatly simplified life for women.
Of course, now there are many variations of the cut in non-traditional colors (including exclusively for ignorant Europeans), pseudo-geishas and other things that spoil the impression of the beauty and deep symbolism of wafuku. Here is one of the fashion shows where kimonos were made from synthetic fabric with padding polyester:
But here are cheap kimonos for the mass consumer. They are distinguished by their particularly bright colors, sometimes eye-catching colors are used:
But don’t pay attention to them, they have nothing to do with real wafuku, and dedicated people can easily distinguish one from the other. And the Japanese themselves treat such “variations” calmly and even coolly.
Cutting and sewing a kimono
Let's proceed to the actual creation of the kimono. Here is the yukata pattern in a spread, in cm:
Choose a fabric that is wrinkle-resistant or does not wrinkle easily, because a wrinkled kimono is an unattractive kimono, regardless of the richness of colors and patterns.
Procedure
1. Measure the required amount of fabric based on the length from the shoulder to the desired mark, multiplied by 2.
2. In the presented pattern, the kimono is sewn with a shelf (so that the pattern can be easily combined). If it is not needed, bend the extension to the front one and sew 0.5 cm from it.
3. So, sweep up the resulting product (both the back and the sides), try it on. Leave the armholes at 25 cm. If everything is fine, you can sew it.
4. Fold the fabric measured for the sleeve in half, you can round the corner. Sew, but be sure to leave room for your hand. Next, you should connect the sleeve and kimono and sew.
5. Tuck up the free edge of the sleeve and the “pocket” in it. Process the bottom of the kimono. Tuck and stitch the vertical lines of the floors.
6. Fold and baste one edge of the collar onto the “face” of the yukata, starting with the finished edge. Fold and hem the second edge. Then fold the collar lengthwise, hide the seam allowance in it, and baste it. If all is well, sew it up.
Kimono care, washing, storage
If possible, of course, it is better to store the kimono on special racks, flattened. If it is especially beautiful, you can put a large painting in the room as decoration.
If not, just fold it carefully without bending it too often. It is advisable that each outfit be in a separate box and lined with paper, and the closet must be treated with an anti-moth agent.
It is better to wash in specialized dry cleaners. But if you are not in Japan, you will have to make do with gentle hand washing (if the kimono is made of cheap fabric and without expensive decorations and patterns, you can also machine wash it on a gentle cycle).
Finally
In Japan, many things are divided into “male” and “female”; even women’s speech in Japanese is different from men’s. But this is even good; without this, the culture of Japan would not be so rich and self-sufficient. And we still have a lot to learn.
If you want to go to Japan and stroll through its streets in a real kimono, first take our master class “Travel to Japan from A to Z.”
But what do you already know about Japan and its people? What specific features of language, clothing, life, ceremonies have you learned? It will be interesting to read in the comments.
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Color
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The color of the kimono also has symbolic meaning, as do the pigments chosen for dyeing. “Colors embody the spirit of the plants from which they are taken,” explain the Victoria and Albert Museum. “The same applies to their medicinal properties, which are believed to be transferred to the tissue. For example, blue, obtained from the indigofera plant, is believed to repel snakes and insects.”
How to draw a Japanese woman in a kimono differently? Solution for 4th grade students in the photo
Below are other step-by-step diagrams with clear and simple drawing techniques. Even a student who is far from art will be able to cope with each of the drawings.
History and evolution
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The prototypes of the kimono, simple and easy to wear, originated in Japan during the Heian era (794 - 1192 AD). As with modern kimonos, straight pieces of fabric were used for sewing. Kimonos also accommodated all sizes and shapes. In the Edo era (1603 - 1868), this clothing was called kosode (small sleeves), the size of the sleeves was greatly reduced. Kosode played an important role during this period; they were worn by all Japanese, regardless of social status, age and gender. To express their own individuality, the Japanese began to look for a way to customize the kosode to suit themselves. During the Meiji period (1868 - 1912), kosode evolved into modern kimonos, becoming primarily women's clothing. The main function of this clothing, as now, was to convey the meanings attached to those who wear the kimono.
Components of a kimono
Although the items that make up a kimono have changed as it has evolved throughout history, the items that make up a kimono today have remained largely unchanged since the Edo period.
Kimono
The main part of the garment consists of a single bolt of fabric called tanmono. Initially, its length is usually 13 meters, which is then divided into 8 parts.
The decorative collar, or haneri, helps protect the collar of the kimono itself from contamination and is attached to the nagajuban, a simple robe worn under the kimono.
Men also wear hakama, traditional wide-leg trousers.
Obi
This is a long belt that is tied over a kimono. Because the obi is often long, stiff, and tied in an intricate manner, there may sometimes be a cord underneath it called a koshihimo to help secure the kimono properly. Obiage is a scarf-like fabric that is tied over the obi.
The obi can vary in style and color, just like the kimono itself, and the fashion for how it is tied has also changed over time. I could write a whole separate article on obi types and styles!
Obijime
Decorative braided cord tied over the obi. It can also be decorated with a brooch called an obidome.
Geta
These are wooden sandals with raised soles, often worn with a kimono or yukata. You may also find people wearing zori, which is similar to geta but without the raised sole. They can be made from rice straw, wood, leather, fabric, rubber or synthetic materials.
Haori
It is a short cape in the same style as a kimono, which was once traditionally worn only by men, but is now worn by women as well. There are different types of haori, and one that stands out is the happi, a cape often worn by shopkeepers that has logos or kanji on it.
They are often tied at the front with two short cords called haori himo.
Tabi
These are split toe socks that allow the wearer to keep their feet warm and wear the geta comfortably.
Along with the kimono, there are many other accessories, many of which have practical uses and many of which are purely decorative.
Drawings
The kimono can be considered as an ideal canvas for creating a work of art. This is facilitated primarily by its vast area and the fact that clothing is a three-dimensional object, which allows the implementation of many interesting ideas.
Along with a kimono, it is very often customary to wear other clothes, so-called underwear. There are especially many varieties of it in women. Representatives of the fair sex can also use a lot of accessories, from a belt to rollers that line a kimono, in order to hide figure flaws.
If we talk about themes for kimonos, it is worth noting right away that many of their motifs were borrowed from China. The Japanese believe in the magical power of images and often have several robes at once, which can symbolize good luck, divine protection, name given at birth, and so on.
The most popular motif is the image of a stork. This bird is considered a symbol of beauty and longevity. Not much inferior to him are the drawings of various plants, from bamboo to plum flowers. The latter are especially often used in kimonos, which are worn in winter, because the plum is a symbol of a wonderful spring.
In women's wardrobes you can often find kimonos with images of a phoenix, and in men's clothes with designs of dragons. Oddly enough, stories in which the main character is a sparrow, a bird that, according to legend, is the enemy of greed and jealousy, are also popular.
